We returned to Nashville after four years away and once again had a great time. We were surprised to discover large crowds and heavy police presence. We learned that the Country Music Awards Festival was underway. To escape the traffic, we ducked into the first parking lot we saw. It ended up costing us $80 for the day. <gasp>
It was nice that the police had blocked off a couple of blocks along Broadway to accomodate the crowds. Our first stop was at Kid Rock’s Honky Tonk because they had some amazing bands last time. We had to squeeze through a large crowd on the first floor before making our way up to the balcony for a good view of the stage. Our timing was great because the band broke into a tribute to military veterans. Angie got lots of love, and first crack at a barstool that had opened up! We didn’t stick around too long, because the band failed to measure up to the quality we had seen before. Also, the band was so loud, we got hoarse shouting in each other’s ears to be heard above the music.
We hit Robert’s Western World next, where an old time band had a stand-up bass and a blind accordian player. The bass player said “Is that Rick Steves in the house?”, pointing at Hank. Hank nodded and gave him a thumbs up.
We crossed the street to Rippy’s Barbecue and Honky Tonk, where we had some delicious dry-rubbed ribs served with turnip greens, cole slaw and cornbread. Yum! Of course there was live music on a stage right in front of us. We were joined at our table by the drummer’s wife, who explained the different revenue models for bands in New Orleans versus Nashville. In “Nawlins”, bands earn a higher base pay which they supplement with tips. In Nashville, tips comprise the majority of the band’s earnings.
After dinner we headed back to Robert’s where we found our favorite band from the trip four years ago – the Kelley’s Heroes trio. Formed by legendary band leader Don Kelley, who retired in 2020, the band is known as the proving ground for elite Nashville guitarists and musicians. The star of the show is guitarist Luke McQueary, who has been playing in Nashville since he was a teenager. There are a lot of good pickers in Nashville, but Luke leads the pack. Kelly’s stand-up bass player, the affable Joe Fick, is a great showman, too. Watch a set and you will likely see him lift the base onto his shoulders to play it behind his head and/or lean the base over 45 degrees to play while standing on the instrument’s side. We can’t get enough of that band!
After spending seven hours on Broadway Saturday, we woke up a little groggy and worn out. We had a restful morning in camp and took Charlie for a swim. A camper van across from us had to get towed out of their site, which made us appreciate that our trouble with a broken window was relatively minor. We, ate lunch then headed back to town around 1 pm. After a little research, we found parking for only $25 for the day. The crowds were lighter on an overcast Sunday afternoon with showers in the area. We didn’t mind that a bit.
We headed to Layla’s, one of our favorite venues, and were delighted to find another talented singer, – Betty Rose. She has a powerful voice and engaging stage presence. Her band plays a lot of classic rock and roll as well as country. But like all the bands in Nashville, they solicit requests in exchange for tips. The clubs typically book the lead performer who invites other musicians to round out their band and on this day, she had a drummer she had never played with before and a young acoustic guitarist and singer that she was able to recruit at the last minute. Her lead guitarist, Pablo, was very good, also. So fun! We stayed for their whole set from 2-6.
We walked up and down Broadway and visited several other venues. We enjoyed a trio with a talented fiddler and guitarist at Miranda Lambert’s bar. On the sidewalk outside Layla’s we saw Joe Flick playing bass. Joe recognized Hank through the open window behind the stage and gave him a smile and a wave. We wandered inside and discovered another amazing guitarist – David Graham. Lookout Luke McQueary!
It rained the next morning. Poor Charlie thinks that every time it rains that there will be thunder. When it rains at home in Kirkland, she hides out in the dark hallway downstairs. In the trailer, the sound of the rain on the roof is loud and there is nowhere to hide. We covered her with a towel to help her feel safer. Luckily, got a break between showers just as we were hitching up to leave.
