June 19th - Harper's Ferry and Sherpherdstown, WV

We worshipped at a United Methodist church in Harper's Ferry. The sermon was on the importance of relationships and how Satan seeks to separate people from each other and from God. It was the clearest explanation of Satan that Hank had ever heard. It was another good reminder for us to focus on our similarities instead of our differences in these divisive times.

Angie had always wanted to cycle on the C&O Canal. Today was our golden opportunity. After the American Revolutionary War, George Washington was the chief advocate of using waterways to connect the Eastern Seaboard to the Great Lakes and the Ohio River. In 1785, Washington founded the Potomac Company to improve the navigability of the Potomac River. His company built five skirting canals around the major falls: Little Falls, Great Falls in Virginia, Seneca Falls, Payne's Falls of the Shenandoah, and House's Falls near Harpers Ferry. These canals allowed an easy downstream float; upstream journeys, propelled by pole, were harder.

As early as 1820, plans were being laid for a canal to link the Ohio River and Chesapeake Bay. The C&O canal eventually covered 185 miles between Washington, DC, and Cumberland, MD. The canal didn't reach Cumberland until 8 years later than the railroad. It operated from 1831 until 1924. It was a lifeline for communities along the Potomac River as coal, lumber, and agricultural products floated down the waterway to market. Boats also carried mail.

The canal was one of the first large-scale civil engineering projects. Seventy-four locks were constructed along its length. Although we didn't see the Georgetown end, the Park Service still operates canal boat experiences at Great Falls and Williamsport and several of the lock houses offer interpretive experiences. Check out this video.

We cycled up river to Shepherdstown, WV, (population 1,700) about 16 miles away. The tow path was hard packed gravel - a very smooth surface which lay between the river and the canal. It was well shaded, peaceful and scenic, with only light traffic. There were a couple of cyclist camp grounds along the route.

We had to climb a steep ramp and cross the river on a highway bridge to reach Shepherdstown. The first thing we saw was a massive Bavarian-style Inn on the high riverbank. Next we saw Shepherd University - a private liberal arts school of about 3,200 students.

We passed a beautiful old Episcopal Church that was completed in 1859. It's tower features one of the original stones from the Episcopal church in Jamestown. We enjoyed a delicious lunch and cold drinks in the air conditioned comfort of Lilah's Restaurant before returning to Harpers Ferry.